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We’ve come to expect a mob like this at Toss It Up on Sparks St. whenever the Maclean’s crew heads over for lunch, a not-infrequent occurrence. Recession-proof formula for a successful Ottawa restaurant:

• Crowded

• Loud

• Staff shouts numbers at odd intervals

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• There are forms to fill out

• Establishment name evokes thoughts of regurgitation

• Food’s good.

Apparently the last point trumps the others.

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